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opening day

April 4, 2010

Nothing marks the beginning of spring like the start of the baseball season.  The Yankees and Red Sox have just kicked off the 2010 season, and the Cubs will open up in Atlanta tomorrow.  Baseball as a game is slow and smart; it starts slow and teams move carefully and methodically through the innings.  The season itself is long, a grand dance from the first crisp, warm nights of spring through to the final crisp, cool nights before winter sets in.  Opening Day is like passing GO in Monopoly – you start fresh this time around and hope the pieces fall into place moving forward.

On another note, The Publican is the best restaurant in Chicago.  I’ve now been twice in the last week.  The first treat was last Saturday night for a 3-story shellfish tower ordered days in advance of the meal and which served to turn all heads in the restaurant towards our table.  I went again this afternoon for brunch outdoors on the patio, dazzled again by the finest bloody Mary I’ve ever had as well as a scrapple made with the leftover pork goodness from last night (I’ve noticed that the ratio of pork to cornmeal and flour in the scrapple depends on how busy they were the night before it’s served; this scrapple had a lot more pork than the last one – perhaps a slow Easter Eve?).  The restaurant group headed by chef Paul Kahan owns 4 of the best restaurants in the city (Blackbird, avec, Publican, and Big Star) and is unsurpassed by any other restaurant group in the country.  There may be a few others who do things just as mesmerizing and creative, but no one does it better.

Nos. 274: 4/4/2010



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